Yucatán Peninsula, Mexico

Just back from my first trip to Mexico, other than briefly stepping over the boarder when starting the Continental Divide Trail. It didn’t disappoint – the weather was hot and sunny, the food was hot and spicy, and plenty of tequila to wash it down :) Not a bad recipe for and short winter break. We flew into Cancún, hired a car and worked our way down the Peninsula along the Caribbean sea.

2 days in Cancún

Lovely beach, sea was a bit strong for swimming, too many big concrete hotels for my liking, Nicky loved the swimming pools and air conditioning though.

3 days in Tulum

Tulum was lovely, all the accommodation along the coast was wood and thatch Robinson Crusoe style cabana’s. Everything had bags of character. We visited the ruins nearby, interesting enough, there’s access to an awesome beach by the ruins, make sure you take your trunks, we forgot…

1 Week in Mahahual

I really liked Mahahual, it’s about a 5 hours drive from Cancun, if I came back to the Yucatán I’d just drive straight here. We spent 4 days in the town, lots of beach side bars and nice places to eat, very relaxing and quiet. We quickly found our favourite bar – Chiquita’s, they had swings hanging from the roof as bar stools. An innovation I’d have to say I quite liked, a very relaxing way to enjoy one of their mean margarita’s. On the 3rd day two cruise ships pulled into town and the place was transformed, we quite enjoyed watching the sleepy little village spring to life to service all the cruise ship passengers before they embarked later in the afternoon. The sea is that amazing turquoise blue colour, calm and great for swimming, there’s a reef just off shore so it’s a bit like a lagoon. We stayed at Luna de Plata just on the outskirts of town, 700 pesos a night (about £35) very good value for money.

Then we drove down the coast road for a bit and stayed at Almaplena eco resort, probably the nicest hotel I’ve ever stayed at. It was twice the price of Mahahual, but it felt like it was worth the extra. Extremely comfortable rooms, right on the beach, nicer water than at Mahahual – deeper and bluer, palms trees hanging over it, awesome. I wanted to continue down the coast to the ‘naturalist retreat’ Playa Sonrisa, but once we’d found paradise Nicky didn’t want to budge.

All in all it was a pretty awesome break, wished we’d gone for longer. I’ve uploaded a set of holiday pics on Flickr is you want to check it out.

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CDT Video/Documentary Premier

CDT Movie Premier

Well I’m sure your all bored to death of hearing about my CDT video by now, but I promise this is going to be the last of it.  This is the final thing I wanted to do with it – a movie premier on a big cinema screen!

My friends at Poke have graciously asked their biscuit Building buddies Mother if I can show it on their big cinema screen. The red carpet will be rolled out on Friday 6th Feb, with some pre-drinkies and trailers from 6.30pm and the full version starting about 7pm.

It’s about 2 hours long, but don’t worry you don’t have to sit still and silent throughout the whole film, it’ll just be on in the background while we get some boozing done. Hopefully we might be getting shipment of free beer from Stella, but if all else fails I’ll be serving up some authentic on-trail margaritas for you to try :)

If you’d like to come, it’s probably best to let me know, I might have to do a guest list thing on the door to make sure we don’t get a load of randoms wandering in.

Here’s a map of where to go:

I’m really excited about it, both to see it really big on screen and also to once and for all put the project to bed.

The CDT in 20 pictures

Our CDT route

Some of you have already seen the video I shot of our 3000 mile hike across America, but while I was carrying the camcorder, Paul was carrying a digital camera. He’s been busy uploading them to his flickr, I don’t think he’s quite finished writing the titles yet, but i can’t resist re-posting some of them here. I’ve tried to choose an image that best describes each aspect of what made the CDT such an enjoyable and amazing experience.

1. Walking, walking and more walking

Walking

Well this was the main stay of our trip to say the least, on a usual day we’d start walking at 7am and stop walking at 7pm. In those 12 hours we’d normally cover about 20 miles.

2. Spectacular Scenery

Grand Teton Range

We saw some amazing sights along the CDT, but probably best of all was this view of Grand Teton from the top of Little’s Peak. This wasn’t actually on the CDT though, we made a rather substantial but ultimately worthwhile detour.

3. Climbing

Climbing

Onwards and upwards! God knows how much we climbed in total actually I’ve just googled it: 124,269 meters, that’s 77.6 vertical miles of ascent!

4. Desending

Steep bit of downhill

What goes up must come down. In some ways this is the bit you look forward to least, gives you knees a real pounding.

5. Taking Breaks

Taking a quick break

You can’t walk all day and more importantly you need to keep refueling yourself (5,000 Calories a day!), here’s a run down of our daily breaks:

  • 6.30am – We’d have a snack bar before we set off
  • 9.00am – Breakfast, we usually had oatmeal, it’s like porridge but not quite as sticky, Apple & cinnamon was our flavour of choice
  • 11.00am – Snack bar and nuts for Elevenses
  • 1.00pm – Lunch, usually cheese & biscuits
  • 4.00pm – Nuts (we ate a lot of nuts)
  • 5.30pm – Energy crisis time, more hand-fulls of nuts to keep us going until 7pm and camp
  • 8.00pm ish – Evening meal, usually Ramen Noodles for starter, a dehydrated Knorr meal for main (Teriyaki noodles was our favourite) and some cocktails!

Generally I wouldn’t ever think about CDT as a whole, not even as a section or day, I would just be focused on one break at a time, watching the clock – only 30 min to go until lunch etc…

6. Camping

camping

Not sure how many nights we spent under canvas, but I guesstimate it’s probably about 140. The old MSR Hubba Hubba did us proud and withstood some pretty stormy nights.

7. Mountains Tops

Top of Mount Elbert

The route itself doesn’t go over that many peaks, but a few detours saw us on top of some pretty special places. best of all was here on top of Mount Elbert 4,421m.

8. Crossing Water

Crossing a River

Compared to European hiking, there’s very few bridges along the CDT. We were constantly getting our feet wet, for which we found our Crocs indispensable. This image is me crossing the fastest, deepest and widest body of water we had to tackle. It was more like a bloody estuary feeding Twin Lakes, should of taken the long way round in retrospect…

9. Taking a Wash

Taking a swim in Green Lake

We could only have a shower/bath once a week when we headed into town to buy some more food. Luckily there was plenty of opportunities en-route for a quick rinse, most beautiful of all was here at Green Lakes.

10. Filtering Water

Filtering water from a old tractor tire

Most of the time the water was crystal clear and went straight from the stream into out bellies. But in New Mexico and the Great Divide Basin the quality and frequency was pretty dire, so my water pumping muscles got a bit of a daily workout. Here’s Paul filtering water out of a old tire surrounded by cow shit as far as you can see in each direction. We never got ill though, cast iron stomachs :)

11. Desert

Desert Walking

I‘m used to walking in mountains, desert hiking was a new experience for me. Interesting enough in it’s huge barren nothingness, but probably the best thing about it was you could notch up 30 miles a day easy and get out of there fast.

12. Snow

Snowy San Juan Mountains

Shit loads of snow, more snow than I was expecting, most of the towns we past through had record breaking snow falls the previous winter. But I like the snow so loved it, the San Juan Mountains section was by far and away the most ‘snowy’, we could only average about 15 miles a day in those conditions.

13. Booze

Instant Margarita Mix

Itook us a while to get into on trail boozing, we needed to get a bit of a base layer of fitness before carrying the extra weight. But by Northern New Mexico we were ready, the drink of choice was Margarita made from powered lemon & lime drink mix, Tequila, water and some of the abundant snow and ice all around us. Halfway through we switched to Rum (cheaper from the liquor store) mixed with various fruity flavours of Crystal Light.

14. Steak

Steak on the grill

One of our rules of walking was that when we got to town the first evening meal had to be the biggest steak they had on the menu followed by apple pie. We couldn’t always get an apple pie, but we never failed to get steak :) Our biggest was 36oz from Burkes Chop house in Jackson Hole. Our best was from the Backstreet Steak house in Grand Lake. Our most unexpected was donated by a rancher we met in the middle of nowhere and fried up on our stove. And our most deserved was in Waterton when we’d just finished the CDT, we managed to convince the chef at the Kilmorey Lodge the cook us up a steak twice as big as the biggest ones he had on his menu!

15. Campfires

when you really need a campfire

Iknow a lot of folk don’t agree with having campfires, but I love them, nothing raises the spirits like making a fire and they just smell so good :) We didn’t have them every night by any means, but on a cold wet evening like above they were indispensable.

16. Sunrise & Sunsets

Sunrise in the Tetons

Spending 6 month living outside you get to see some pretty amazing sunrises and sunsets. My favourite was here on Little’s Peak in The Grand Teton National park, never seen a sunrise last so long, the sky was red for half an hour or more.

17. Fellow CDTers

Boston & Cubby

There was 11 north-bounders hiking the CDT in 2008 (as far as we knew). They were: Boston & Cubby, Joe (Red Beard), Heesoo (Impulse) Strix & Sharpshin, Bart, Pinball Wizard, Sunset and Sicily B. It was a pleasure hiking with all of you :)

18. Hiking Buddies

Nicky, dad and Giles

My girlfriend Nicky came out and hiked a bit of Colorado with us for a couple of weeks. It was her first time backpacking and at altitudes up to 4,000m! She did really well :) Then in August my dad and brother came out to coincide with our detour through The Grand Teton National Park.

19. Folk who helped us out

Folk who helped us out along the way

The random acts of human kindness were experienced were probably the most unexpected and cherished aspect of the CDT. The guys in the bottom right drove 30 miles down dirt roads to go fetch us a crate of beer we so desperately needed. The lady in the top left let us stay at her house free of charge for 2 days. The trucker in the top right drove us 50 miles to Salmon in his truck. We were bought beers in bars, handed out beers from the back of pick-ups and ATV’s (everyone drives around with a supply of cold beer!). We were even given a bit of weed on a couple of occasions ;) the list goes on and on, thank you all.

20. Great Friendship

Great friendship

Well finally, I think probably the most amazing thing about our CDT experience was that we managed to stay friends! Six months of barely leaving each others sight, we slept next to each other every night and for 99% of the time there was nobody else to talk to. I think it’s a rare thing (not sure if I could do that with my girlfriend!), it’s definetly made us much closer friends.

20 Photos not enough? Then check out all of Paul’s photos on Flickr, or view all the blog posts we made en-route.

Design your own Tequila bottle

This was of those rare times where I saw an online ad and really felt the need to click it. Come on, design your own tequila bottle and have it put into production, who wouldn’t want to take part it that? Well maybe I’m a bit biased with my recent Margarita addiction. Wait a minute, just seen that it’s not a competition… you have to pay them to print your design on a bottle, $225 no less! Not sure if I really want to design my own tequila bottle quite as much any more…