The CDT in 20 pictures

Our CDT route

Some of you have already seen the video I shot of our 3000 mile hike across America, but while I was carrying the camcorder, Paul was carrying a digital camera. He’s been busy uploading them to his flickr, I don’t think he’s quite finished writing the titles yet, but i can’t resist re-posting some of them here. I’ve tried to choose an image that best describes each aspect of what made the CDT such an enjoyable and amazing experience.

1. Walking, walking and more walking

Walking

Well this was the main stay of our trip to say the least, on a usual day we’d start walking at 7am and stop walking at 7pm. In those 12 hours we’d normally cover about 20 miles.

2. Spectacular Scenery

Grand Teton Range

We saw some amazing sights along the CDT, but probably best of all was this view of Grand Teton from the top of Little’s Peak. This wasn’t actually on the CDT though, we made a rather substantial but ultimately worthwhile detour.

3. Climbing

Climbing

Onwards and upwards! God knows how much we climbed in total actually I’ve just googled it: 124,269 meters, that’s 77.6 vertical miles of ascent!

4. Desending

Steep bit of downhill

What goes up must come down. In some ways this is the bit you look forward to least, gives you knees a real pounding.

5. Taking Breaks

Taking a quick break

You can’t walk all day and more importantly you need to keep refueling yourself (5,000 Calories a day!), here’s a run down of our daily breaks:

  • 6.30am – We’d have a snack bar before we set off
  • 9.00am – Breakfast, we usually had oatmeal, it’s like porridge but not quite as sticky, Apple & cinnamon was our flavour of choice
  • 11.00am – Snack bar and nuts for Elevenses
  • 1.00pm – Lunch, usually cheese & biscuits
  • 4.00pm – Nuts (we ate a lot of nuts)
  • 5.30pm – Energy crisis time, more hand-fulls of nuts to keep us going until 7pm and camp
  • 8.00pm ish – Evening meal, usually Ramen Noodles for starter, a dehydrated Knorr meal for main (Teriyaki noodles was our favourite) and some cocktails!

Generally I wouldn’t ever think about CDT as a whole, not even as a section or day, I would just be focused on one break at a time, watching the clock – only 30 min to go until lunch etc…

6. Camping

camping

Not sure how many nights we spent under canvas, but I guesstimate it’s probably about 140. The old MSR Hubba Hubba did us proud and withstood some pretty stormy nights.

7. Mountains Tops

Top of Mount Elbert

The route itself doesn’t go over that many peaks, but a few detours saw us on top of some pretty special places. best of all was here on top of Mount Elbert 4,421m.

8. Crossing Water

Crossing a River

Compared to European hiking, there’s very few bridges along the CDT. We were constantly getting our feet wet, for which we found our Crocs indispensable. This image is me crossing the fastest, deepest and widest body of water we had to tackle. It was more like a bloody estuary feeding Twin Lakes, should of taken the long way round in retrospect…

9. Taking a Wash

Taking a swim in Green Lake

We could only have a shower/bath once a week when we headed into town to buy some more food. Luckily there was plenty of opportunities en-route for a quick rinse, most beautiful of all was here at Green Lakes.

10. Filtering Water

Filtering water from a old tractor tire

Most of the time the water was crystal clear and went straight from the stream into out bellies. But in New Mexico and the Great Divide Basin the quality and frequency was pretty dire, so my water pumping muscles got a bit of a daily workout. Here’s Paul filtering water out of a old tire surrounded by cow shit as far as you can see in each direction. We never got ill though, cast iron stomachs :)

11. Desert

Desert Walking

I‘m used to walking in mountains, desert hiking was a new experience for me. Interesting enough in it’s huge barren nothingness, but probably the best thing about it was you could notch up 30 miles a day easy and get out of there fast.

12. Snow

Snowy San Juan Mountains

Shit loads of snow, more snow than I was expecting, most of the towns we past through had record breaking snow falls the previous winter. But I like the snow so loved it, the San Juan Mountains section was by far and away the most ‘snowy’, we could only average about 15 miles a day in those conditions.

13. Booze

Instant Margarita Mix

Itook us a while to get into on trail boozing, we needed to get a bit of a base layer of fitness before carrying the extra weight. But by Northern New Mexico we were ready, the drink of choice was Margarita made from powered lemon & lime drink mix, Tequila, water and some of the abundant snow and ice all around us. Halfway through we switched to Rum (cheaper from the liquor store) mixed with various fruity flavours of Crystal Light.

14. Steak

Steak on the grill

One of our rules of walking was that when we got to town the first evening meal had to be the biggest steak they had on the menu followed by apple pie. We couldn’t always get an apple pie, but we never failed to get steak :) Our biggest was 36oz from Burkes Chop house in Jackson Hole. Our best was from the Backstreet Steak house in Grand Lake. Our most unexpected was donated by a rancher we met in the middle of nowhere and fried up on our stove. And our most deserved was in Waterton when we’d just finished the CDT, we managed to convince the chef at the Kilmorey Lodge the cook us up a steak twice as big as the biggest ones he had on his menu!

15. Campfires

when you really need a campfire

Iknow a lot of folk don’t agree with having campfires, but I love them, nothing raises the spirits like making a fire and they just smell so good :) We didn’t have them every night by any means, but on a cold wet evening like above they were indispensable.

16. Sunrise & Sunsets

Sunrise in the Tetons

Spending 6 month living outside you get to see some pretty amazing sunrises and sunsets. My favourite was here on Little’s Peak in The Grand Teton National park, never seen a sunrise last so long, the sky was red for half an hour or more.

17. Fellow CDTers

Boston & Cubby

There was 11 north-bounders hiking the CDT in 2008 (as far as we knew). They were: Boston & Cubby, Joe (Red Beard), Heesoo (Impulse) Strix & Sharpshin, Bart, Pinball Wizard, Sunset and Sicily B. It was a pleasure hiking with all of you :)

18. Hiking Buddies

Nicky, dad and Giles

My girlfriend Nicky came out and hiked a bit of Colorado with us for a couple of weeks. It was her first time backpacking and at altitudes up to 4,000m! She did really well :) Then in August my dad and brother came out to coincide with our detour through The Grand Teton National Park.

19. Folk who helped us out

Folk who helped us out along the way

The random acts of human kindness were experienced were probably the most unexpected and cherished aspect of the CDT. The guys in the bottom right drove 30 miles down dirt roads to go fetch us a crate of beer we so desperately needed. The lady in the top left let us stay at her house free of charge for 2 days. The trucker in the top right drove us 50 miles to Salmon in his truck. We were bought beers in bars, handed out beers from the back of pick-ups and ATV’s (everyone drives around with a supply of cold beer!). We were even given a bit of weed on a couple of occasions ;) the list goes on and on, thank you all.

20. Great Friendship

Great friendship

Well finally, I think probably the most amazing thing about our CDT experience was that we managed to stay friends! Six months of barely leaving each others sight, we slept next to each other every night and for 99% of the time there was nobody else to talk to. I think it’s a rare thing (not sure if I could do that with my girlfriend!), it’s definetly made us much closer friends.

20 Photos not enough? Then check out all of Paul’s photos on Flickr, or view all the blog posts we made en-route.

Rob Gauntlett Tragedy

Rob Gauntlett

Ah crap this is not good news, just heard that on January 10th Rob Gauntlett and climbing partner James Atkinson fell to their deaths while climbing Mont Blanc. Both were only 21 years of age, but from what I’ve read of Rob, he’s crammed a lifetime’s worth of achievements into those few short years.

He was the Youngest Brit aged 19 to climb Mount Everest in 2006 with friend James Hooper, also 19 (pictured is Rob on the summit of Everest). In 2007 the pair set off on an epic journey from the North to South pole mostly on foot, bike, and ship. Completing the journey the journey in 2008 won them the much coverted National Geographic Adventurer of the Year award. What the guy could of achieved if this hadn’t of happened we can only imagine, my condolences go out to both men’s friends and families.

Cookie & Paul do America

Preview of Cookie & Paul do America - video documentary site.

Ihaven’t been blogging much of late and I haven’t been sleeping much either… But that’s all going to change because this is an amazing post and after I finish writing it I’m going to bed! I’ve been editing my video documentary of our successful completion of the CDT. So clear a couple of hours and check out my site – Cookie & Paul do America, use the links on the bottom to navigate between sections. If you haven’t been keeping up – The Continental Divide Trail is a 3000 mile walk from Mexico to Canada along the Rockie Mountains, we did it this year in five and a half mouths from May to October, it was epic.

It’s mostly set to music that I feel fits the mood of the section, with a little bit of chat in between. Nicky noted that most of the songs come from the 1970’s which seems quite fitting because as we make our way across America out beards get longer and longer (it’s a tradition or an old charter or something), eventually we look like we are in the 1970’s! The last finishing touch was to add in the Indiana Jones style map sequences the give each section a bit of context. Thanks to Google maps new terrian view for providing an excellent map source for me the screen grab and five million steps for plotting the route on to it :)

When I get back and finish up a few outstanding bits and pieces, I’m planning to hire a cinema/pub with a projector and have a big screening (and piss up). I’ll let you know details when I sort them out.

Well Merry Christmas internet folk, I’m off, I’ll be back in London and bloggin’ in the new year, have a good one.

Colorado section of the CDT

Hot on the heals of last weeks New Mexico section, here’s the highlights of the Colorado. Set to the beat of Rock and Roll, Part 2 by Gary Glitter (no comments about kiddy fiddling please).

As you’ll gather from the video, the defining aspect of Colorado was probably the snow. When we entered Colorado and crossed the San Juan Mountains (in June) you could barely follow any kind of footpath. It was mostly buried deep under snow so the map and compass were always at hand taking bearings and working out where over the next ridge we were supposed to aim. We had days where we’d hardly step foot on bare earth all day and it was a strugle to find anywhere to pitch our tent on the evening. But as June turned into July things started to melt and there was a bit more grass to laze about on at lunchtime, but this caused it’s own problems of water logged ground and swollen streams to cross…

Our favourite section of Colorado was the San Juan Mountains, you might notice a couple of extra people in the video – that’s Boston & Cubby, two fellow CDT’ers we helped through the start of this tricky section. It’s probably worth noting me & Paul were the only people out of the 11 northbounders to complete the San Juan’s, everyone else took the Creede cutoff. But probably the best singular highlight was climbing Mount Elbert, which is the highest mountain on the Continental Divide. The long panorama towards the end of the video is the awe-inspiring view from the top. But also for me, my girlfriend Nicky came out halway and walked with us for 2 weeks (we had to slow down a bit for her).

We had our best Steak of the CDT here, it was at the Back Street Steakhouse in Grand Lake. (probably our most expensive meal too…)

About a third of the way in there’s a shot of me in the tent during a lighting storm. This was probably the scaryest moment on the CDT, lightening was hitting the ground every 10-15 seconds and all round us in every direction… After crouching down in the trees for a while, we decided we couldn’t bare the sight of it anymore and had to just get in the tent, close and eyes and hope that we waked up in the morning! Well we did :) and we were at the Wyoming border a few days later, the halfway point of the CDT.

New Mexico section of the CDT

I‘ve been back for well over a month now, but I’ve only just got round to starting the mammoth job of editing the hours of footage I shot of my walk across America… It’ll be a while before I get it all done, so I thought I’d upload some little chunks as and when I get them done. First up is New Mexico in 2 minutes, set to the beat of Dueling Banjos from the film Deliverance.

New Mexico was without doubt the worst section of the CDT, it’s not very mountainous and there wasn’t many footpaths, a lot of the time we were walking on dirt roads or bush wacking. It was hot as hell, not a great deal of shade and very little naturally occuring surface water. Most of our water was pumped out of the water table for cattle and we usually had to filter it from their troughs… some weren’t that bad, some were bloody awful, I was quite surprised by what I was happy (genuinely really happy) to drink when desperate!

It wasn’t all that bad though, it was interesting walking through the desert, although I wouldn’t really want to do it again (once is enough). The Gila River and surrounding wilderness area were amazing (not to mention the hot springs). Pie Town was super friendly, just before Cuba and then further north to Colorado was all good. It was also the cheapest state and the stars at night were awesome.

New Watch

Suunto Watch

My mississ Nicky has gone back to England now :( As a keep sake and also because I knew I’d wreck it, I gave her my beautiful old Breitling Navitimer to hold on too (my most treasured possession).

It’s quite handy to know the time though, so today I got this Suunto Core watch. Not only does it tell the time, but also what altitude you are, predicts weather trends and has a storm alarm (will be handy in the heart of the Rockies) and a bloody compass! Surprised it’s taken me so long to get such a Swiss Army knife of the watch world, looking forward to putting it through the paces of the Continental Divide Trail.

I kind of wanted the obscenely chunky orange and black version, but they didn’t have it at the shop…

Roundup of New Hiking Gear

Each year before I go off on a big walk I generally buy some new gear, this year because I’m going away for such a long time (see sidebar) and my girlfriend Nicky is coming out too (who doesn’t have any kit) I’ve bought loads..! So here’s a roundup of the stuff that I thought was good enough to part cash with. Most of the stuff is in dollars, because the exchange rate as it is, everything is just about half price from the states. So I did all my shopping over there (via the interweb) and got it sent to a mate who I’m visiting when we get there.

Van Hoy Snap Lock Knife

Van Hoy Snap Lock Knife

This is totally unnecessary, I hear that the proper ultralight hiker would just take a razor blade to use as a knife. But I have certain manly urges to be armed with a proper knife in the wilderness and this I thought was a fair compromise as it only weights 77g and looks reasonably mean :) Costs: $36 from Backcountry.

Sony HDR-SR12E HD Hard Disc Drive Handycam

Sony HDR-SR12E HD Hard Disc Drive Handycam

After much deliberating about which camcorder to get, finally Sony made my mind up by bring out the HDR-SR12E. Over 6 months I’m going to have plenty to time to record lots of video. Recording on my old camera was going to be quite expensive, buying tapes and posting them back home, not to mention the weight and bulk of them all. I initially wanted a camera that recorded onto memory cards, Sony’s new HDR-TG3 is a sexy new contender for that role. But in the end I would of either had to spend a smaller fortune on memory cards or carried around an external hard disk to back it up onto. In the end having everything together in the one unit seemed like the sensible option, no duplication.

The HDR-SR12E has a 120GB internal hard disk, recording at full quality, 1920×1080 pixels it can save 15 hours of footage. I worked out that over the length of trip that equates to about 5 minutes a day, which isn’t a huge amount. But because it’s breeze to review, delete and even split clips on the go (unlike the tape) I thought with a bit of careful pruning each day that’s probably achievable. But actually I don’t even have a HD tv, or a Blu-ray disc burner, or a computer with enough disk space to take it when it’s uncompressed… so video at that resolution is a bit of a waste on me! So I think I’ll set it to 1440 x 1080 pixels, which doubles my recording time to 30 hours and 10 minutes a day. Cost: £859 from Amazon.

green bear bag hanging kit

Mountain Laurel Designs Pro Bear Bag System

Not used one of these before, but we don’t want those pesky bears eating our food! So this is a kit to hang all our tasty treats in between two trees and out of their reach. Cost: $65 from Mountain Laurel Designs.

Patagonia Capilene  - Long Sleeve top

Patagonia Capilene 1 Crew – Long Sleeve Top

To be honest I couldn’t be bothered researching what was the best top out there, there’s so many… I’m sure this one will do the job and the bottom line – I just like the retro styling. Costs: $38 from Backcountry. MSR Hydromedary Hydration Bag

MSR Hydromedary Hydration Bag

I got the lighter weight Cloudliner bag last year, but managed to hole it in about 3 places before the end of the trip… So I decided to upgrade to this one, as it a bit more durable. I went for the 2.5 litre size because the 3 litre was a bit of a squeeze into the front pocket of my rucksack. I got Nicky the 2 litre ‘cus she’s only little. Cost: $35 from Backcountry.

Mountain Laurel Designs XP Quilt

Mountain Laurel Designs XP Quilt

This is the sleeping bag I got for Nicky. I’m quite excited about seeing it in action, seems quite versatile. You can use it as a quilt or wrap it round you to almost be a full sleeping bag (strap in your mattress where the gap is). Apparently the insulation on the bottom is wasted when compressed, so you don’t need it. My Rab Top Bag is same and that generally holds true. I got Nicky the maximum amount of insulation 240g per square metre, thinking that when winter draws in I might swap my sleeping bag for hers. Cost: $200 from Mountain Laurel Designs.

montbell stretch gaiters

Montbell Stretch Gaiter

These I got for Nicky (keep the sand & snow out). Only 46g a pair, pretty impressively lightweight. Cost: $30 from ProLite Gear.

rab generator jacket

Rab Generator Jacket

I have in the past just worn a fleece, but everyone says these new synthetic jackets are much warmer and lighter. I went for this one mainly because it’s made by Rab, a Yorkshire firm, just down the road from back home, but it also packs into your pocket & only weights 380g. Looking forward to trying it out on a cold night. Cost: $150 from ProLite Gear.

Down_Jacket

MontBell, Ultralight Down Jacket – Women’s

This is the jacket I got for Nicky. Nicky’s is in a nice orange colour, they don’t seem to do it any more? Well anyhow it only weighs an unbelievable 180g, they reckon that’s less than 2 carabiners! Costs: $125 from Backcountry.

trekking pole

Life-Link Guide Ultra Light Trekking Poles

These are the poles I got for Nicky. Don’t know much about poles, but Nicky likes red and apparently “it’s one of the lightest and most dependable trekking poles on Earth” – that’ll do for me. They weigh in at 454g. Cost: $100 from backcountry.

inov8 roclite 320

Inov-8 Roclite 320 Trail running shoe

I was a bit naughty getting these – I did the classic faux par of buying a pair of shoes that I’d never tried on, just to save a little bit of cash… I did try a similar Inov 8 trainer in the UK to check sizes, lets just hope they’re comfortable when I pick them up from John’s in a couple of weeks. They’d better be, because I’m relying on them taking right across New Mexico shortly after! I picked these ones once again because they’re a british company, this time hailing from the Lake District. But also because I’d heard good things about them. I’ve never been hiking in trainers before, but all the ultralight folk reckon it’s the way forward. New Mexico isn’t too mountainous and there’s much dirt track walking, so it seem the perfect time to try them out. Certainly going the lighten the load at only 320g. Cost: $100 from ProLite Gear.

Brasher Supalite GTX walking boots

Brasher Supalite GTX Walking Boots

I’ve bought these boots to post out to myself at the end of New Mexico, ready for a bit of snow stomping when we get into Colorado (they’ve had twice as much as usual this year…) Made by Brasher, another British company, I’ve been wearing them round London for a week or so and they feel pretty good. They felt in the shop lighter than many of the fabric boots, come in at just over 1kg. Cost: £125 from Brasher.

torsolite inflatable sleeping pad

Bozeman Mountain Works TorsoLite Inflatable Sleeping Pad

I got two of these! One for me and one for Nicky. I’ve always just used a foam pad, but have been impressed by the extra comfort of Paul’s Therm-a-Rest, so decided to upgrade. This one is significantly lighter (only 300g) than the Therma-a-Rest’s, mainly due to the fact that it only covers your shoulders down to your arse (81cm)… they reckon you don’t need it for your legs anyhow! Costs: $60 from Backpacking Light.

dri ducks raingear

DriDucks Micropore Rainsuit

This really is a piece of shit, but waterproofs cost a shit load and this baby’s only $15! So what do you get for about £8? Not a great deal, but hopefully it won’t fall apart instantly and last Nicky for the 2 weeks she’s out walking with me. Only weighs 340g (troussers & jacket) so at least she’ll be able to run for cover quickly when it does start raining :) Cost: $15 from Backpacking Light.

tweed hat

Gore-Tex Scottish Tweed Rain Hat

Check this bad boy out, couldn’t resist taking a good old bit of British tweed along with me. This has the added bonus of being lined in Gore-Tex to keep my head dry. Although I’ll probably regret that when the sun’s beating down, but hey, I’ll look pretty damn fine ;) Think I must of bought the last one, doesn’t seem for sale anymore, can get it from Japan here though.

zip rucksack

Mountain Laurel Designs Zip Rucksack

This is a pretty bare bones pack, no internal frame, just a bag with some shoulder straps! But because I’ve tried to kit Nicky in the lightest possible stuff, she shouldn’t have much more than 2kg to go in there, so support shouldn’t be an issue. I’ve read that you can actually use your inflated and folded mattress as an internal support. It’s got a 47L capacity and weights an incredible 310g! Costs: $165 from Mountain Laurel Designs.

nokia n82

Nokia N82 Mobile Phone

Finally there’s our phone, the Nokia N82. We landed on our feet a bit with this one, when my friend Nathan heard about our big walk, he was working on promoting this new sports tracker model. He suggested to Nokia that it would be in the best interests of both of us if they gave us one with a paid SIM so that we could use it to blog our way across America! Haven’t actually got it yet, but hopefully it’ll be tracking our GPS position, taking our pictures and keeping this blog updated shortly :)

Well there was a few other bits and pieces I bought like stuff sacks and zip lock bags etc.. but I think this post is quite long enough as it is.

Hint: Anyone manucfacturers want to send me any free kit to test out, I’ll be happy to oblige :P

John Muir Trail 2007

Just finished editing the video of our walk along the John Muir Trail (JMT) last summer, click play on the quicktime above to see the quick intro. Edited to the classic Rawhide theme :)

The JMT is a long-distance trail in the Sierra Nevada mountain range of California, running 211 miles from Yosemite to the summit of Mt. Whitney, highest point in the contiguous United States at 4,421 m.

If you’re interested you can see what the whole trip was like by watching the full video here »

Continental Divide Maps

Continental divide maps, beware quicksand!

I‘ve just recieved all the maps we need for our imminent hike along the Continental Divide, created by Jonathan Ley, they are better than I expected. Each map (and there’s hundreds of them) has the route and variations drawn on, and is full of notes about the route, places to get water, hot springs and all sorts. This one above just caught my eye though:

Quicksand somewhere on this map, I won’t say where exactly, because that kind of thing is a lot more exciting to dicover by accident. Ahhhh! Quicksand!!!

Can’t wait, I always wondered what it would be like to be stuck in quicksand :) Cheers for the maps Jonathan, they’re amazing!

John Muir Trail 2007

climbing mt. whitney in the dark

My mate Paul has been busy finally uploading his photos of our previous walking holidays to his Flickr. Above is us climbing Mt. Whitney at god-knows-o’clock in the morning, to get to the summit for sunrise. Whitney is the highest point in the contiguous United States at 4,421 meters. It’s taken from a trip we did to California last year to walk the John Muir Trail.

You can see all photos here: Day 1, 2, 3&4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 & Vegas.

Couldn’t resist posting the image of me below, winding down in Vegas at the Hooters casino in vegas and the end of the hols ;)

cookie at hooters casino with hooters girl